All of those picture were the "drive for show" Here is the "putt for dough" shot.
Looks pretty tight. I shouldn't have a problem gluing those up. However, I think I'm going to use some biscuits to help with alignment.
Nice tight joints, ready for gluing.
Just for kicks, I thought I would measure the shavings I was throwing with the #5. I thought that was pretty good for me.
Very good actually.
Those are some thin shavings there.
Here is a shot of my #5 that I picked up at an antique shop a few years ago and I never really used it. You can see a little rust on it, but now that it's sharp, it works awesome. I'm liking hand work more and more. It gives you a level of precision that's hard to beat with power tools. There is also a lot more control.
No. 5 in action.
After the initial planing, I use a straight edge and check to see if there is any gap. I'm not sure what the official procedure is here, but in the picture below, I could make the ruler bounce, telling me that my ends were high
This is hard to see, but there is a little gap in the middle of the board. A few quick passes with the plane and and I get friction all across the ruler.
Using a straight edge to check for low spots.
A couple of shots of the clamping rig.
Here is a closeup of the joint. Not even close.
The boards were finished S3S. (surfaced 3 sides) That makes finishing up the 4th side pretty easy. A sharp rip blade makes quick work of it too.
Ripping the rough side of the board.
These are the boards that will become the top. 5/4 Quarter Sawn White Oak.
Looks pretty tight. I shouldn't have a problem gluing those up. However, I think I'm going to use some biscuits to help with alignment.
Nice tight joints, ready for gluing.Just for kicks, I thought I would measure the shavings I was throwing with the #5. I thought that was pretty good for me.
Very good actually.
Those are some thin shavings there.Here is a shot of my #5 that I picked up at an antique shop a few years ago and I never really used it. You can see a little rust on it, but now that it's sharp, it works awesome. I'm liking hand work more and more. It gives you a level of precision that's hard to beat with power tools. There is also a lot more control.
No. 5 in action.After the initial planing, I use a straight edge and check to see if there is any gap. I'm not sure what the official procedure is here, but in the picture below, I could make the ruler bounce, telling me that my ends were high
This is hard to see, but there is a little gap in the middle of the board. A few quick passes with the plane and and I get friction all across the ruler.
Using a straight edge to check for low spots.My problem for jointing the boards is that my 6" jointer bed just isn't long enough to handle these boards...they are 60" inches rough. I got a new grinder for my birthday this year, and as a result my Stanley #5 is really sharp, so I decided to give that a try and see what it can do. I started off by clamping the 2 boards to be jointed together. I don't have a real vise on my bench, so my Jet clamps will have to do. Next, I drop the clamp off the bench, and en essence, it made a bench hook, perfect for planing. It didnt' move on me at all.
A couple of shots of the clamping rig.The table saw does a fairly good job taking care of the rough edge, but the table saw is not a jointer. You can see that there is a pretty good size gap there.
Here is a closeup of the joint. Not even close.The boards were finished S3S. (surfaced 3 sides) That makes finishing up the 4th side pretty easy. A sharp rip blade makes quick work of it too.
Ripping the rough side of the board.These are the boards that will become the top. 5/4 Quarter Sawn White Oak.
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