Thursday, April 9, 2009

Rough Cut the Top

All of those picture were the "drive for show" Here is the "putt for dough" shot.
Looks pretty tight. I shouldn't have a problem gluing those up. However, I think I'm going to use some biscuits to help with alignment.
Nice tight joints, ready for gluing.



Just for kicks, I thought I would measure the shavings I was throwing with the #5. I thought that was pretty good for me.
Very good actually.
Those are some thin shavings there.



Here is a shot of my #5 that I picked up at an antique shop a few years ago and I never really used it. You can see a little rust on it, but now that it's sharp, it works awesome. I'm liking hand work more and more. It gives you a level of precision that's hard to beat with power tools. There is also a lot more control.
No. 5 in action.



After the initial planing, I use a straight edge and check to see if there is any gap. I'm not sure what the official procedure is here, but in the picture below, I could make the ruler bounce, telling me that my ends were high
This is hard to see, but there is a little gap in the middle of the board. A few quick passes with the plane and and I get friction all across the ruler.
Using a straight edge to check for low spots.



My problem for jointing the boards is that my 6" jointer bed just isn't long enough to handle these boards...they are 60" inches rough. I got a new grinder for my birthday this year, and as a result my Stanley #5 is really sharp, so I decided to give that a try and see what it can do. I started off by clamping the 2 boards to be jointed together. I don't have a real vise on my bench, so my Jet clamps will have to do. Next, I drop the clamp off the bench, and en essence, it made a bench hook, perfect for planing. It didnt' move on me at all.

A couple of shots of the clamping rig.



The table saw does a fairly good job taking care of the rough edge, but the table saw is not a jointer. You can see that there is a pretty good size gap there.
Here is a closeup of the joint. Not even close.



The boards were finished S3S. (surfaced 3 sides) That makes finishing up the 4th side pretty easy. A sharp rip blade makes quick work of it too.Ripping the rough side of the board.


These are the boards that will become the top. 5/4 Quarter Sawn White Oak.

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